Christmas in Provence

December is here, lights are turning on everywhere… and at home, Christmas already smells like Provence!

This year, we are celebrating Christmas at my mother’s place, in her Provençal mas near L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, in the Luberon. Do you know the region? At my mother’s house, traditions are carefully respected… sometimes a little too much !

My mother comes from a family of peasants, well farmers (said with absolutely no disrespect — just good old agriculture), she is a “true Provençale”, and for her, Christmas is not just about a tree and a few presents. It’s a whole ritual, full of symbols, sharing… and food (lots of food). Of course, these are Christian and are not followed in all French families, even in the South.

What are they then ?

A Christmas tree ?

In fact, there is no Christmas tree at my mother's house! Instead, every year, she sets up the traditional Provençal crèche, decorated with moss, branches and natural elements. The crèche represents the Nativity (the birth of Jesus) and is made with santons — small clay figurines representing villagers and tr

aditional professions. On Christmas Eve, we place the “baby Jesus” in the scene, alongside Mary, Joseph, the donkey and the ox.

The gros souper

On the evening of December 24th, we don’t eat foie gras or turkey. Instead, we share the gros souper, a traditional meat-free meal made up of so-called lean dishes. My mother cooks spinach with cream wonderfully — she could make every child in France love spinach with her recipe!There are also cardes with béchamel made from olive oil and water (a kind of blettes), and morue (salted cod) in tomato sauce. These are the three dishes we eat at the same time… yes, not quite as “lean” as it sounds!

The thirteen desserts

It’s impossible to finish a Provençal Christmas meal without the famous “thirteen desserts” (representing Jesus and the twelve apostles — you get the idea!). How do we reach the number thirteen? We have dried fruits (walnuts, almonds…), fresh fruits (clementines, sometimes grapes), white nougat, black nougat, fougasses, quince paste, dates… and of course papillotes (absolutely essential, in my opinion!).

Would you believe me if I told you my mother makes her own nougat? I know, it sounds very cliché — but it’s true!

And every year, we taste it, compare it with previous years and debate endlessly.

The table and the traditions

Before the bûche became a dessert, it was first… a real wooden log! It is placed in the fireplace to symbolize light, warmth and the continuity of the family.

On the table, three white tablecloths must be laid, one on top of the other. They represent the Holy Trinity, but also abundance and sharing.

Another essential element placed on the table is three small bowls of wheat and lentils, planted on Saint Barbara’s Day (December 4th). If the wheat grows well, it’s a sign of prosperity for the coming year. My grandfather used to say:“When lou Blad grows well, everything grows well” — meaning that when the wheat is healthy, life is good.

This year, my close family will be together: my parents, my sister, my nieces, their father, my family… and of course Ulysse, our Golden Retriever. The only small issue? Ulysse may end up terrifying Cosy, my mother’s cat. Christmas is also that: love… and a bit of chaos!

I hope this little journey to Provence has made you want to discover (or rediscover) French traditions.I wish you a warm, indulgent December full of shared moments.

In French, we say Joyeux Noël but also “Bonnes fêtes de fin d’année!”.